Method of seaming plush-back fabrics



(No Model.)

L. s. 80X. METHOD 0F SEAMING PLUSH BACK FABRICS. No. 298,288

. Patented May 6, 1884.

LEwis s. coX, E PHILADELPHIA, PENivsYLVANIA.r

METHOD OF SEAMING PLUSH-BACK FABRICS.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 298,288, dated May 6, 1884.

Application lcd October 23, 1883. (No model.)

Tall whom it may concern,.-

Be it known that I, LEWIS S. COX, of the city of Philadelphia, county of Philadelphia, and State of Pennsylvania, have invented an Improvement in Scams for Plush-Backed Fabrics, of which the following is a specification.

Myinvention has reference to garments having peculiarly-formed seams, but particularly to seams for jerseys and jersey-cloth having a plush back; and it consists in lapping the two edges to be joined and simultaneously, or vthereabout, sewing them together, and trimming off the free edge very close to the said seam or line of stitches, and then opening said parts to the position they assume in wear, and, after pressing down the same, brushing the plush back in a manner to cause it to lie over the seam and felt together, completely hiding and protecting the said seam, as more fully set forth in the following specification and shown in the accompanying drawings, which form part thereof.

The obj ect of my invention is -to form a seam for jerseys and jersey-cloth generally in such a manner that the same is practically invisible and can hardly be felt, rendering the t and finish of the garment far superior to anything heretofore produced in seamed goods.

In the drawings, Figure l is a perspective view of the present method of forming the seam on jerseys and jersey-cloth. Fig. 2 is an enlarged cross-section of same. Fig. 3 is a perspective view of my improved seam as applied to jerseys and j ersey-cloth having plush backs. Fig. 4E is a perspective view showing the seam in the process of manufacture. Fig. 5 shows the seam completed, and Fig. Gis a perspective vicw of a jersey embodying my invention.

The seam B on jerseys and jersey-cloth as at present made consists in sewing together the lapped edges of the fabric A A, as at C, leaving wide seam-edges D. rlhese edges D are laid open and bound with a strip of cloth,

E, being secured thereon by rows of stitches l F F, and the seam is then pressed open, as shown in Fig. 2. rIhis is the seam used at present,whether with smooth or plush backed jersey or jersey-cloth, and has the objectionable feature that it prevents the garment fitting the form or body closely, and always shows a line or raised part, and in addition thereto it is uncomfortable for the wearer and Very unsightly.

My invention is applicable only to plushbacked fabrics made in the usual manner, but preferably made with three threads, as set forth in the patent to Kent and Leason, No. 160,685, and dated March 9, 1879, under which I am the exclusive licensee. The use of plushbacked fabric for jerseys and other garments is new and only recently begun, and in all cases of its use the seam shown in Fig. 2 has been productive of effects more objectionable than when ordinary smooth-back jersey-cloth is used.

In forming the seam I lay two pieces of the plush-backed fabricA A to be united face to face and sew them together, as at I, and then trim off the surplus edge close to the said seam, as shown at H in Fig. 4; or, if desired, the sewing and cutting operation may be carried on simultaneously, as is now commonly done in the manufacture of cut hosiery. The fabric proper is shown at A A, and the plush backs at A A. The cloth is then spread out, as shown in Fig. 5, and the seam pressed, the stitches embedding themselves down into the fabric A, and the two cut edges are pressed substantially flat with said fabric. When this is done, the plush back A is brushed in such a manner as to mat or felt over the seam G, completely hiding it from View and rendering it practically invisible from the inside, as shown at A2, and as the garment fits as perfectly over the seam as anywhere else, the seam is hardly discernible from the outside. Without the felting of the plush back to protect the seam, the latter would tend to unravel and open the seam at Various points; but this felting of the plush fibers prevents this taking place, and in practice it is found that a strain of one hundred pounds will not affect the seam in the slightest manner.

I am aware of the patent granted to Keller July 24, 1888, and do not claim anything therein shown or claimed, that patent being for simply inserting triangular pieces or gores of any material into the lower part of a fur garment to cause it to flare, as is customary in ladies garments, the fur hidingsaid gores.

Having now described my invention, what I claim as new, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is-

1. The herein-described method of uniting by sewing two pieces of plush-backed fabric, which consists, iirst, in laying them upon each other face to face, then joining them by a line of stitches and trimming the said pieces close to said line of stitches, then spreading said pieces out fiat and pressing the seam, and nally felting the plush fibers of the back over said seam to protect andrender it invisible, substantially as described.

LEWIS S. COX.

Vtnesses:

R. M. HUNTER, IsAiAn MATLACK. 

